Day 3 - The angel takes to flight

It's time. This is the day, special for us, but also for the Venetians who celebrate the start of Carnival today.

However, we start the day along the Giudecca Canal. At the point of the island of Giudecca it is still wonderfully quiet. That will soon change when all the carnivalists and tourists overtake the city. The first revelers are already arriving.

From the point where the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal meet, we have a beautiful view of San Marco Square and its surroundings. 

The impressive La Salute basilica, built in baroque style, is also located on this island, which according to some was built on 1 million piles, according to others on 10 million piles. 

Be that as it may, the church was in any case built in gratitude for the relief from the plague epidemic in 1630. The plague has wreaked havoc in Venice. I don't have to tell you what happened to the dead as a result of the plague, for lack of a cemetery… That is how the plague epidemic took off in the city. By the way, the word 'quarantine' has its origin in Venice. It was suspected that the plague was spread by rats that came with the merchant ships from China. These ships had to remain at anchor for 40 days before they were allowed to enter the city and unload their merchandise. Hence 'quarantine'.

It took fifty years to complete the church. The octagonal space is covered with a huge dome. The inside of the church is quite chilly and bare ue to the use of natural stone. The dome of the church dominates the silhouette of the city.

We walk back to the big island via the beautiful wooden Academia bridge. From the bridge we have a panoramic view of the Grand Canal and of a rowing race in the spirit of carnival… what else?

We continue our walk to the La Pièta church, which has been restored and no longer serves as a church but where Vivaldi's music is still played. There is now also a musical instruments museum here. Born in Venice, Vivaldi worked as a teacher and priest and gave concerts in this church with a choir of orphaned girls. A scandal involving one of these girls destroyed the composer's reputation and Vivaldi decided to turn his back on Venice forever.

In the meantime it is 11 am and it is gradually time to head towards San Marco Square, so that hopefully we can get a good spot when 'Il Volo dell'Angelo' starts at 12 pm. It turns out to be a bit quieter than in other years and I can still move comfortably in the square and find my spot.

Carnival in Venice lasts 'slightly' longer than elsewhere, more than two weeks. The word carnevale is derived from the Latin, carnem levare and means as much as 'farewell to meat', which refers to the fasting period that starts on Ash Wednesday and lasts until Easter.

The Carnival of Venice captures the imagination of many. Not in the least because of the beautiful robes and masks. But of course also because of the parties, balls and performances. In the past, the masks and robes formed a fantastic disguise, allowing everyone to pretend to be different from everyday life.

The oldest document found about the use of masks in Venice dates from May 2, 1268. It hasn't always been a celebration, though; the traditional celebration of carnival was discontinued at the end of the 18th century. It was not until the second half of the 20th century that it arose out of the blue.

Now the Carnival of Venezia is one of the most famous carnivals in Europe.

The official start of the carnival takes place at 12 noon with 'Il Volo dell'Angelo', the flight of the angel. An angel flies down from the 92-meter-high Campanile (the bell tower on St. Marco Square).

The angel always flies on the first Sunday of the Venetian Carnival, this year on February 8th. A dangerous looking but at the same time fairytale-like tour that certainly makes my heart beat faster. Long ago, hearts beat a lot faster, because originally a equilibrist walked high above the Piazza San Marco to the balcony of the Palazzo Ducale. However, after more than 250 years of shaking knees among the expectant audience, things went wrong. After this tragic accident, the equilibrist was replaced by a wooden pigeon, which scattered confetti over the visitors during its flight over Piazza San Marco. The people of Venice wanted their angel back in 2001, and so it was done. However, the angel no longer walks on a rope stretched across the square, but flies down from the 92 meter high campanile. A true spectacle, especially because the angel is often a well-known Italian singer or actress. Marianna Serena, winner of the Festa della Marie 2014 (being the carnival parade), is the angel this year.

It is an emotional moment as she descends amid a silenced audience with angelic music in the background. Fortunately, you can not see mythe tears under my mask. I am deeply moved.

After the flight I try to get off the square quickly, but with so many people that is almost impossible. So I kill the time by admiring the beautiful costumes and masks of the carnivalists. Some must have cost a lot of money. They willingly pose for my camera, and with a thank you from my side, they humbly bow their heads. These are unique days.

The beautiful opera La Fenice (the phoenix) has risen from its ashes three times like a real phoenix. Three major fires broke out in the opera house, the last time in 1996. The building has since been completely restored and the richly decorated hall looks beautiful, including the sparkling chandelier and magnificent ceiling. During the tour we can also settle down in the lavishly decorated royal box that was made for Napoleon Bonaparte.

Then quickly across San Marco Square to the Doge's Palace, which lies along the Grand Canal. 

The Doge's Palace was the seat of the Venetian government from the 9th century until the fall of the Republic in 1797. Besides the official residence of the Doge, the palace was also the nerve center of the republic with offices, armories, meeting rooms, courts and dungeons. The palace was a symbol of political stability and independence and a confirmation of superiority. We visit most of the government halls (including the Senate and Council of Ten, Great Council) and courts. The palace is directly connected to the prison via the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge is so named because through the window of the bridge the prisoners could take a last look at the Grand Canal, which was often accompanied by a sigh… We walk via this bridge to the prison and also visit the cells there.

Since the 9th century, the Doge was elected through complicated electoral procedures to prevent the rise of despots. The Doge was elected for life by the nobles of the Great Council. The average Doge was a wealthy 72-year-old statesman from a prominent family. The Doge was not allowed to appoint relatives to high posts. He was always accompanied by advisers and was not allowed to receive large gifts. The Doge headed the Signoria, a cabinet of three chief judges and six counselors who represented the city's neighborhoods. Their consent was required in all decisions. The many advisory bodies and changing functions prevented dictatorship and made conspiracies impossible. Yet the doge was more than a figurehead. In practice, he was a prominent statesman who nevertheless had an influence on government within the limits of the law.

Then I turn the corner for another short visit to San Marco Basilica, built in Byzantine style. It has five domes. Both the interior of the basilica and the facade are decorated with mosaics.

There are also four horses on the facade. Behind the altar hangs the Pala d'oro, a medieval altarpiece set with precious stones (emerald, ruby, sapphire, ...). This masterpiece was made in the 10th century. The mosaics were made by the masters from Constantinople. Not bad, but after seeing the mosaics in the Haga Sofia and those in Sicily, I am a bit disappointed. I end my visit by lighting a candle for the family and especially for André, Armand and Alexa who were baptized here... Regrettably I couldn't be present at the baptism itself. It would have made a visit to unforgettable Venice even more memorable.