Day 3 – A different world

This morning it turns out that the most precious possession in my suitcase are…. my earplugs.  A horrible concert that our four-legged friends, the dogs, performed resounded through the city all night long. I would not call it a perfect pitch and a pleasure for the ears. It more likely will result in an acoustic trauma. The nocturnal noise is in brutal contrast to the heavenly peace during the day.

Today our first two hundred km on Bhutanese soil and our first real introduction to the country are on the program.

A country like Bhutan obviously comes with a few guidelines. It is not a country like any other and we want to stay here with all due respect to our hosts.

Since tourism in Bhutan is still in its infancy, especially in the east where we start our journey (tourism only started here about five years ago), it is possible that there are residents who have never seen strangers (especially people with blond hair) and are shocked. I've been warned 😉. In western Bhutan, they received the first tourists about twenty-five years ago. Eastern Bhutan is still the most entrenched in the past. The inhabitants still wear the traditional clothing: a cloth, for both men and women, which consists of one piece and is held in place with a belt. Only loose white cuffs are added because they get dirty more easily and can be changed quickly. The longer the cuffs, the more important one is. The gown won't be a show stopper on the catwalk, but it does showcase the traditional spirit of the country.

The most special rule is the one about smoking. They have quite a strict law. In principle, smoking in public places and the sale of tobacco are prohibited (possession of tobacco for private use is permitted). Smoking is allowed in designated places, provided a permit is requested upon arrival in the country. Just lighting up a cigarette anywhere is strictly prohibited.

The first item on the agenda that our guide has to do today is to sign us up, a procedure designed to avoid illegal immigration from India and Bangladesh.

Today we have to drive about two hundred kilometers, but in the end it will take us about eight hours. The road is not only bumpy, but also dusty, narrow and winding. Do not forget, we have to cross the foothills of the Himalayas. The road ahead is only partly ready. It is financed with Indian money and constructed by Indian guest workers, both men and women. The main reason for the construction of this road is to facilitate transportation for import and export from/to India. India is Bhutan's main trading partner. For example, the country derives 60% of its income from electricity exports to India.

The first part of the drive today is in a tropical area. It is very warm, the vegetation very dense, we are therefore on the Indian plateau. We see the Indian road workers work hard in high temperatures and that without shelter. Many machines are not involved. Almost everything is still done by hand.

The road gradually narrows and it becomes more difficult to pass an oncoming vehicle. It is therefore not surprising that at some point we get stuck when overloaded trucks have to pass us on a much too narrow stretch. There is no other option than to reverse the bus, right past the crash barrier. Luckily  for us this morning, a dence fog hangs in the mountains, so we can't see the abyss next to us… Leaving behind a lot of tufts and black smoke, the beautifully decorated trucks pass us. The road is open for us again.

This inhospitable area has another drawback: there are no cafes or restaurants along the way, which means that a pipi-stop takes place behind a lost shack or behind a green bush. For lunch, this disadvantage is on the contrary  an advantage. After all, it gives us the opportunity to have a picnic by a rippling stream with a view on the lowest Himalayan peaks.

At 5 pm and after a hellish final climb, say the driveway to our resort, we arrive in Trashigang, the capital of the province of the same name and the most densely populated area of ​​Bhutan. Be aware that about 150,000 of the 700,000 nationals live here.

Our first day brought quite an adjustment for us westerners. Wondering what tomorrow will bring. First I'm going to have a good night with a view of the Himalayas. What does one want more?