Day 6 – Of Kings and Queens

Jakar is located in so-called Bumthang valley, which is said to have the shape of an elongated water pitcher. Buddhism is said to have been introduced in this region by Guru Rinpoche. From then on, Bumthang became the residence of famous saints and teachers.

The weather has cleared up completely this morning, apart from a few white clouds high in the sky. We are in the mountains, so of course the weather remains unpredictable, but it already looks a lot better than yesterday.

We start the day with good news. A three-day festival in honor of Guru Rinpoche begins today in Jakar. Of course we have to attent and it is an excellent reason to turn our entire program upside down. Not only are we paying a surprise visit to the festival, but also some important visitors are expected. Not one but two of the four Queen Mothers will be present. The previous king is married to four wives, sisters even. Polygamy is allowed in Bhutan as long as you can support your different wives. The eldest and the youngest sister are coming to Jakar today. After breakfast we leave directly for the festival meadow where the younger Queen Mother is already seated on her throne. 

It is still waiting for the other sister before the festivities can begin. Her flight from Paro has apparently been delayed, so we quickly decide to finish our normal program first and then come back. The first temple we visit today is also the oldest. 

It has no less than two floors. Older people in particular come here, even those who have difficulty walking. A walking stick brings solace for the crooked oldies. They spend all day here (even bring their lunch) so that they can pray here all day long. 

This has mainly to do with their advanced age and the fear that comes with it that upon their death, which may be lurking around the corner, their karma is not quite what it should be. You better make the most of the time you have left.

The main shrine here is dedicated to the Buddha of the Future Times. In November, a special festival takes place here, where the men paint their faces and dance naked for the ladies.

We take a walk through the fields on our way to the next temple. This one is very special because the kings are cremated here. Unlike those of commoners, the royal ashes are not scattered in the river, but kept in a stupa. There are currently three stupas, each one for the three deceased kings. This privilege applies only to the kings themselves. The ashes of the deceased queens and the rest of the royal family are scattered in the river like those of general population. It is a beautiful temple that actually consists of three buildings. Here, in this natural setting with a pine forest in the background and the long grass in front, you first notice the beautiful architecture of the Buthanese temples. Whitewashed walls broken up with impressive woodwork along the windows and bordered with red painted strips. The temple itself is topped with an elegant square golden turret.

We continue to enjoy our continious walk through the pure nature of Bhutan, especially the peace and quiet in this piece of no man's land. Half an hour later, a suspension bridge leads us to one of the most important shrines in Bhutan: the Kurjey Lhakhang, which served as a meditation place for Guru Rinpoche.

After lunch we leave for the festival that has already started. The elderly Queen Mother has finally arrived and there is plenty of dancing going on. Unique to see. The dancers move in their colorful long dresses and wear terrifying masks. They dance in group, while others take care of a solo. With  dedication  in abundance, they bring the best of themselves for their royal highnesses, for the monks present and for us, the casual spectators.

Our hosts know how to receive their foreign guests. We get a seat with the monks under a nicely decorated tent. This way we are sheltered from the sun and we are a short distance from the queens. The festival takes place in a truly perfect setting. Beautifully colored trees provide a perfect backdrop and the higher located dzong of Jakar looks on approvingly.

After an hour of attending, we continue on our way. We first visit the dzong of Jakar, which also dates from the 17th century. It is nicknamed the dzong 'of the white bird' and is actually the most traditional dzong we have seen so far. 

Next we set course for the newest temple in the city, and we get our next surprise. It is party time. The monks first let us jump over a burning pile of wood and then we can participate in the rites in the temple. We are given flour and water to cleanse ourselves 'inside', a little later tea and a corn biscuit to eat. 

Unfortunately we have to leave after half an hour because it is getting dark and we have one more visit to make. We drive about ten km out of the city to go to the 'flaming lake'. Here Pema Lingpa, who is said to be the reincarnation of Guru Rinpoche, is said to have found one of the hidden treasures of Buddhism. Guru Rinpoche hid it when Buddhism threatened to disappear. Pema Lingpa is said to have jumped into the icy water with a lit candle in hand, only to resurface with a Buddha statue in hand, his candle still burning.

Today Bhutan surprised us many times. Is this perhaps the basis of happiness? Let everything come to you and gratefully take the opportunities that come your way. In any case, I am grateful and happy after a day like today