Day 11 - The Paro festival

Today the pinnacle of the program is on the agenda: attending the Paro festival.

We leave early to be at the festival site on time. This party used to take place in the courtyard of the dzong, but it has since been moved to an area next door due to the increasing number of spectators. So we attend the tshechu (religious festival) of Paro in honor of Guru Rinpoche and his great deeds, as mentioned earlier the founder of Tantric Buddhism in the 8th century.

The monks or lay monks dance the chams (religious dances) and are dressed in imaginative costumes and masks. 

These depict animals, terrifying deities or apparitions of Guru Rinpoche. A tshechu normally lasts between three and five days. This one from Paro is already on its fourth day. This morning we attend the first three dances of the day: the dance of death, the dance of the four deer and the dance of judgment.

We're lucky today. We woke up with a completely blue sky. That's the first time of the whole trip. The dance spectacle is a special experience and a privilege to be part of it.

The festival opens with the procession of the monks from the dzong to the festival site.

The monks put their best foot forward (or two) against the backdrop of the dzong of Paro and the snow-capped peaks of the higher Himalayas.

In small and large groups, the monks dance, twirl, revolve around their axis, skipp and jump. They are accompanied by three musicians, who I would rather call the three kings, as they literally play the traditional musical instruments while crowned. Their silver and gold-trimmed robes sparkle in the sunlight.

After four o'clock the big party is over for us. We briefly enter the dzong, but it pales in comparison to the others we have already seen.

Meanwhile, the wind starts to blow heavily. This may indicate a weather change.

We enter the Paro Valley. This valley ends at the border with Tibet. It is through this avenue that Tibet has carried out several attacks on Buthan in the past.

Not only does it start to blow hard, there are also clouds. Unfortunately, these clouds prevent our view of the Jomolhari, the highest mountain in Bhutan at 7,314 m. It is on the border with Tibet. This mountain, like all other mountains in Bhutan, is sacred. Moreover, it is the supreme shrine because according to the Bhutanese the gods reside in these mountains. Therefore, mountaineering is absolutely forbidden here. For the same reason, no minerals are mined that are located in the mountains. Bhutan buys it itself from India or Thailand.

The Jomolhari is the beautiful backdrop for the Drukyel Dzong in clear weather. It was built in 1647 in honor of the victory over Tibet. Unfortunately in 1951 a butter lamp was knocked over by a mouse and the dzong burned down. Now only a stone ruin remains.

We drive back to the city to the Kyichu temple. This is one of the two oldest temples in Bhutan. Legend has it that it was built by King Songsten Gampo who built 108 temples in one day to defeat a female demon.

When we arrive at the temple, we are not allowed to enter. Turns out one of the Queen Mothers is currently visiting the temple. We're all lined up when she comes out. Apparently she is the biological mother of the current king. The previous king and his four wives have ten children together. The eldest is a daughter, but according to the law, men have priority over women on accession to the throne. So the second eldest child, a son, became the new king.

The Queen Mother carries a baby on her arm, the child of one of her daughters who is also present. She insists on chatting with those in attendance, mostly tourists. She exchanges a word with everyone.

Our conversation goes like this:

Queen : This is my grandson

Me : He is beautiful

Queen to her grandson : Say tata

Silence…

Me : Tata

Queen : I think he is a little bit tired. Have a happy time in Bhutan and enjoy your trip.

Earlier she had said to one of my fellow travellers, when she heard that we come from Belgium, to say helo to Filip and Mathilde 😉.

Due to the delay, it is of course very busy at the temple now and we decide to come back tomorrow.

Another beautiful day in Bhutan with the divine festival as the cake and meeting the Queen Mother as the icing. Oh what a day of happiness in Bhutan.