Day 10 – The hard life
One thing I
really wonder about is who the hell gets it into his head to come and live
here?
The beauty of nature is one thing, but after a while, this may even get bored.
You have to be carved out of special wood to survive here in these difficult
circumstances. Perhaps the free land has something to do with it. One who lives
here for 30 years, will automatically get the land for free. Easy you think.
But the Patagonian steppe only likes tough men and women that are not easily
scared away. True survivors who can endure anything. Think of the cold, harsh
winters with a huge mass of snow. And in summer, we would not actually call
summers. There is a reason that people of Tierra del Fuego do not have to pay taxes, and also on top of
that draw an additional premium. Literally trembling money.
Today we transfer to Chile. The ride through the steppe takes about 3,5 hours.
A drive through the wonderful and endlessly looking landscape of Patagonia
where the gauchos drive their cattle and / or sheep. These animals graze in the
steppe of slightly dried grass. High peaks of the Andes alternate with eroded
mountains. Azure coloured lakes and
rivers alternate with a bare landscape. Rocks, one larger than the other, are
reminders in the landscape of the glaciers that once were. These rocks were swept away by the movement of the
glacier.
Occasionally we pass an estancia (ranch), the one already larger than
the other. Distances between villages are phenomenal here. Imagine yourself in
a manner of speaking alone in the world. Yet there is still a dominant factor:
the wind. I have already spoken several times about this, but you must have
felt him to understand its impact. The wind blows constantly here at an average
of 80 km / h with peaks of well over 100 km / h. Wind is not only
uncomfortable, it is also downright dangerous to traffic. A gust of wind may be
enough to get you off the road. We feel the minivan swaying in the wind. Later it turns out that this danger
is real: a car went off the road and landed under the fence on the site of an estancia.
Luckily the car has not rolled completely down, because then it could have
taken a while before anyone had noticed. The lady who was in the car talks, but she has a head
injury and possibly a broken leg. If you see the condition of the car, this is
all in all not too bad.
We eventually reach without any mishap the Argentine border, where we leave the
country (for a while anyway) and arrive
through no man's land at the border with Chile. Here our adventure really
begins. The border appears to be closed due to a strike by customs. Fortunately
for us it is just temporary strike and the border will open at 1.30 pm just to
let everyone through. That means chaos. All in all, the delay remains limited
and soon we can cross the Chilean side of the border. We stop for a snack,
exchange money and continue our drive to our overnight stop in Puerto Natales.
What strikes us immediately is that on the side of the Chilean Andes, it is a lot
greener. The grass looks green, trees are growing and there are more shrubs. We also see a lot more animals
than on the Argentinian side. The reason is not far to seek. The rains continue
to hang over the Andes of Chile. Or how Patagonia can be so different.
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