Day 17 – Buenos Aires revisited

Two weeks ago, our trip in Argentina began with a soaking wet tour of  Buenos Aires. Today we take revenge and we complete our tour. We begin at the famous Plaza de Mayo. The square is surrounded by colonial buildings including the Casa Rosada, the presidential palace where a.o. Juan and Evita Peron held their speeches from the balcony.

President Sarmiento restored the location and introduced the pink color. This pink color was obtained when beef fat, blood and lime were mixed to create a mixture that prevents moisture. But the square mainly owes its fame to the many protests that took place here. Protests at the time of the working party, but most of all due to the protests of the so-called silly mothers, las madres de la plaza mayor. Since 1977, they demonstrate here every Thursday afternoon by walking laps around the square, wearing white headscarves and photos, asking for clarification about their missing children, husbands, brothers. This desaparecidos disappeared during the military dictatorship. This came to the attention of the world in 1978, when the Soccer World Cup was held in Argentina and journalists investigated stories about torture and disappearances. On the square is also located the Cathedral of Buenos Aires, and thus the seat of the archbishop. From 1998 to 2013, Jorge Maria Bergoglio was the archbishop of Argentina and this was his little church. He was archbishop until he was elected in 2013 ... to Pope Francis I.

In the cathedral is also the mausoleum situated of General Jose de San Martin, liberator of Argentina, Peru and Chile. He is revered by all Argentines, regardless of political orientation. Thirty years after his death, his body was transferred from France and reburied here. Since he was a mason, his grave lies just outside the actual church. At his grave, the guard is held by the grenadiers. The changing of the guard has this morning  place at 11 am and we are witness to that.

We drive through the harbor Puerto Madero district where neglected warehouses were transformed into beautiful luxury homes, restaurants, etc.  We continue to La Boca, the Italian immigrant neighborhood. Here is among others the stadium of Boca Juniors, where Maradona started playing football as a boy. We walk along Calle Caminito, where houses stand in all colors of the rainbow. At the time, this was a real immigrant district and to escape from the grayness and drabness of existence,  a resident came up with the idea to paint the houses in bright colors.

We continue to San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. It is also one of the most lively areas with many tango bars and restaurants. But also with many antique shops. In this neighborhood there is also the Via Via restaurant of Buenos Aires. Via Via is a part of Joker travel and our Mieke, our tour guide, is one of the founders of Joker. This lunch is also my farewell to this group. I end later today this trip in Santiago, the rest fly back to Belgium.

And was this trip inspiring? Maybe I need to quote Charles Darwin once again :

'When recalling memories of the past, repeatedly the  Patagonian plains come to mind: these flats are according to everyone miserable and useless ... Then why is this barren wasteland so firmly put in my memory?‘. Maybe friend Charles forgot one thing. A more correct quote would be: ‘When recalling memories of the past, repeatedly the  Patagonian plains come to mind: these flats are according to everyone miserable and useless ... Then why is this barren wasteland  which is governed by the tireless and relentless wind so firmly put in my memory? ‘.

This is how I will remember Patagonia.