Day 4 – Peninsula Valdes

Valdes is a peninsula and one of the most important nature reserves in Argentina. Since 1999, it is on the list of UNESCO World Heritage. It is known for its wonderful rich wildlife, as it is the breeding ground of whales, elephant seals and sea lions.

Today we begin the day with one of the highlights in this regard. The penguins were already a treat yesterday, let’s see what the whale can do.

I have chosen to do this trip in November for a reason. In this time of the year you can find the whales here after they return from a long journey from Antarctica to procreate (whales get very difficult pregnant), to give birth after a pregnancy period of 12 months and to educate their calves before they return,with calf this time, to the south.

The strong wind here is not it easy on us. The whales swim a few kilometers off the coast, so we need to sail to them by boat. But strong winds can cause the waves to be too big to sail. Let’s see what will happen today. We stop first at a colony of sea lions that live just at the beginning of the peninsula.

The male one sits like a pasha on his rock, looking around the area. The other lions disappear in the water and come back out a moment later totally refreshed. Others are drying in the sun. Everything seems in peace and harmony.

Meanwhile, we learn that the port is open and that we can go on our whale watching tour.

Time to take a seasickness pill, because the wind blows like a fool, so I am prepared for a not too quiet voyage.

We leave from Puerto Piramides where we take the boat. We sail in a small boat that can carry up to 70 people. Today there are only 35 of us  but the boat is really filled. How do they do that with 70 people, I would not know. The boats are not on a pier or quay, but on the beach. With a tractor we are pushed into the water.

The waves are indeed heavy. The first minute I praise myself lucky that I have taken something. After a few kilometers, whales are being spotted. This region has only one species: the southern right whale or Australian whale. Some 10 per cent of the world's population can be found here. You can find them further in South Africa, Brazil, New Zealand and as the name suggests in Australia. Currently, the population of Peninsula Valdez is estimated at about 3,000. They can become up to 50 to 60 years old. But whales do not have teeth so they can defend themselves difficult. They live on plankton and krill which they filter through their baleen. They eat about  a ton per day. The greatest enemy of the whale are the orca and humans. Whales are slain for their oil and meat. Under their skin, they have about 30 to 40 cm of fat where oil is extracted from.

The southern right whale looks a little unusual. Their head is full of parasites. These are useful for the animal because they eat the dead skin cells.

This year, around 250 calves were born. Mama feeds her babies for about two years. This is done by the ejection of hot milk which forms little balls in the water. Mummy whale can go about 4 months without food while she cares for her little one.

We see basically mothers and newborns here. Mother whale teaches them the tricks of the trade before they migrate to the Antarctic, a trip that takes about a month.

It is amazing to see how mom and child, either together or alone come up for air. Mummy is aware of the boat and takes her little one in protection by swimming between the boat and her calf.

Less awesome is the sudden nausea feeling that comes up. While everyone is full tenderness watching the scenes, I can’t do nothing else than me to bend over the rail and let happen what happens: be seasick. If we some time  later see a rare albino whale and calf, it happens again.

I'm relieved when we sail back to land. Glad the trip is over. From here we leave to our lunch place.

On the way to Puerto Delgado we see a few salt lakes, which are the lowest places in South America.

In Puerto Delgado, we go to watch the elephant seals. I do this from on top of a cliff, the daredevils among us go down a steep descent to see them closer. Meanwhile Patagonia is honoring its reputation and we are, as it were, outsmarted by a sandstorm. It feels like our body is sandblasted. You can also view this positively: we get a free bodyscrup. But it really hurts eventually. Fortunately I've been smart enough to stay on top of the cliff. When I see how steep it is, I would probably have gotten a free mud bath too as I would have fallen here.

Elephant seals are extremely unwieldy animals. They move their body but after a few 'steps' they take a break. They enter the water slowly but steadily. They have a little more energy in the water and are quietly swimming. Other animals have a siesta on the beach.

Time for our siesta or better, time to go back to the  hotel for our bed for the night having sweet dreams.