Day 4 – Blenheim Palace meets Oxford

Sir Winston Leonard Spencer-Churchill is one of the best-known 20th century statesmen. He was the British Prime Minister who resisted Adolf Hitler during WW II, thus playing a decisive role in his demise and allied victory. He died at the age of 90 and was buried in the cemetery of the small village of Bladon after a state funeral in St. Paul's Cathedral in London. He chose this graveyard because he could see this cemetery from his place of birth. We will visit his grave first this morning. It is a simple grave in white marble where he and his wife Clementine found their last resting place.

Sir Winston is a descendant of the Duke of Marlborough.

British warlord John Churchill made great successes during the Spanish Succession War, including the Battle of Blindheim, defeating the French under Louis XIV. As a result, British Queen Anna made him a member of the nobility by awarding him the title of Duke of Marlborough and giving him a plot of land and a big sum of money. With this money he constructed a huge building on the piece of land. The giant building is a palace worthy and it was named Blenheim Palace (Blindheim in English). It is the only building in the United Kingdom that is allowed to bear the title of palace that is not in the hands of the royal family or the church.

Sir Winston's father was Lord Randolph Henry Spencer-Churchill, the third son of the seventh duke of Marlborough and Jennie Jerome, the daughter of US millionaire Leonard Jerome. Sir Winston was accidentally born at Blenheim Palace while his parents were visiting grandpa. After an afternoon of horseback riding, Lady Churchill went into labor two months earlier than planned. She gave birth to Winston on November 30, 1874. There were no toys or clothes available. Fortunately, one of the servant girls had given birth a few weeks earlier and Winston was dressed in some of the clothes she had.

We will explore this gigantic and beautiful palace in the coming hours, which in fact also has the allures of a palace in its decorations. The architect John Vanbrugh was actually a theater architect and the palace has something theatrical. Especially the entrance hall, which with its high ceiling with beautiful painting, large columns and balcony reminds us of a theater hall. The stairs are hidden behind the pillars.

The gold-plated ceilings,

                          detailed Flemish tapestries,

priceless paintings and timeless pieces of furniture from different periods make this a gem. The beautiful 17th-century style garden with geometric flower beds and fountains designed around 1920 by the French architect Achille Duchêne complete it.

Blenheim Palace is indeed worthy of a palace, a baroque masterpiece of love from the 18th century which took more than 20 years to complete. Sir Winston Churchill was not only born in this palace, he also proposed here to his later wife Clementine. One more note about the Churchills. When the first Duke died, only daughters were alive. Exceptionally, the oldest alive daughter inherited the title of Duke. The title then jumped to a female side branch of the family, who carried another last name because of the marriage to one of the Earls of Spencer. The third duke of Marlborough is officially called Spencer. On special authorization, the fifth duke changed his name to Spencer-Churchill, thus bringing the historically important name of Churchill back in their official name. From here on all Dukes and their descendants were named Spencer-Churchill. And yes, the Earls of Spencer is indeed the family to which Lady Diana belonged. The most famous English politician from the 20th century and the most famous princess from the 20^th century have the same ancestors ...

Oxford University is the oldest university in the United Kingdom. Together with Cambridge, the other university, they belong to the most famous universities in the world. The University of Oxford consists of 39 so-called colleges, each of which is more or less independent from each other. They themselves decide which students they allow, their structure and activities. Each college is built separately by a king or rich benefactor, most of them between the 13th and 15th centuries. Because the practice of science was reserved for the church, the colleges were designed as monasteries, often surrounded by beautiful gardens. These beautiful buildings only serve as a sleeping place for both professors and students, in the large dining rooms the students are still eating at long tables and the professors are on stage. Here are also the famous tutorials held. Access requirements are strict. Of the many candidates, only the best are retained. This makes Oxford one of the top 5 of the best universities in the world.

For whom the tuition fee of approximately GBP 30,000 a year is not a problem (think of additional fees for accommodation, etc.), may try to get enrolled into the university and become one of the 30,000 annual students. The strict entrance exam is slightly different from ours. Those who have the necessary qualifications can start the long race:  written tests, writing a paper and finally a personal conversation. Many feel called, but few are chosen. The ones that are admitted are immersed in the unique world of teaching in Oxford. Classical classes and lectures are given in large modern halls outside the city. In the old college buildings, the 'tutorials' are given, where students work in a very intense and personal way with the 'tutor/professor' on a couple of subjects each week in small groups (sometimes three persons).

We visit the city along these beautiful and stately buildings: Christ Church, now famous for the dining hall used in the Harry Potter movies. The 'Bridge of Sighs' (similar to that of Venice) connecting the old and new Hertford College building. The Bodleian Library, the oldest public library in Europe and the Oxford research library. This is one of the six libraries in the UK that have a custody obligation. This means that of every book issued in the UK a copy is required to be sent to Bodleian. Applause is rising from the Sheldonian Theater. One of the proclamations is under way.

It is the last week of June, and next to the proclamations, open days are held for new students. We present ourselves as  interesteded students, walking in Magdalen College without having to pass officially as a tourist the cash register. This is one of the most beautiful universities with a beautiful lawn for croquet behind which the dorms are located. Beautiful landscaped gardens, edged with flower beds in which perfect hydrangeas bloom, and romantic little towers.

In the distance we hear singing. We are being sucked in as it were. From the chapel we hear the heavenly sound of the choir rise. We sneak in walking on tiptoes. Goosebumps and tears in the eyes are the only way to describe the emotion. What a feeling it must be to sing in this beautiful sacred place.

But Oxford is not only known for his university. From the corner of our eye we keep an eye on whether we can see a dark red Jaguar. Now that chance is small of course because his owner died a few years ago from a heart attack. The man with a terrible morning mood and who rather drank a glass than eat a meal but who was one of the best police detectives : Inspector Endeavor Morse from the same series of books and TV series. The original series consisted of 33 episodes, all of which were filmed in Oxford. The colleges gave permission to film but the real names could not be used. All college names in the series are fictional, except one: Exeter College where he got his fatal heart attack. And what was not fictional  either was the bar at the Randolph Hotel. Here, Morse and Lewis discussed complex cases. The thought of Inspector Morse in one of these seats, whiskey in one hand and with a deep frown on the forehead while Wagner sounds in the background turns a nostalgic smile on our face.