Day 3 – An Arabian fairytale

Knowledge and culture are

the cornerstone of civilisation, progress

and nation-building

                                                                                                               Sjeik Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan

2018 is the year of Sheikh Zayed, the great and immensely beloved former leader of the United Arab Emirates. He was born in 1918, exactly one hundred years ago.
Until 1971, the various emirates were a protectorate of the British. When they withdrew in 1971, seven emirates decided to unite under the inspiring leadership of Zayed. His motto: 'Unity is strenght’. Where did we hear that J? As Emir of Abu Dhabi, the largest and wealthiest emirate, he became the first president of the United Arab Emirates which he  remained until his death in 2004. He was subsequently succeeded by his son Khalifa. The Emir of Dubai is the vice president. Oil drilling is the main source of income for the Emirates but that oil is unevenly distributed. The largest emirate Abu Dhabi, representing 86 pct of the territory, also accounts for 80 pct of the oil production. That gigantic wealth ensures that the inhabitants of the Emirates do not have to pay taxes (but that will soon change), that housing, health care and education is free for the Emirati.
What immediately stands out in Abu Dhabi is the more relaxed atmosphere compared to its more famous brother Dubai. This is mainly due to the many green areas in Abu Dhabi. We are still in the desert, of course, but Sheikh Zayed had a preference for date palms and had 160 million palms planted throughout the Emirates, particularly in Abu Dhabi. It immediately makes the capital of the Emirates an oasis of peace. But not just of rest. Sheikh Zayed had a clear vision which mainly involved investing in education and culture. And that culture is mainly to be found here. In November last year, French President Macron himself opened the Louvre Museum - Abu Dhabi.

Big money was paid by the Emirates for the use of the name, the borrowing of a revolving collection of artworks and management support. The museum is housed in a beautiful futuristic construction surrounded by water. The dome looks like an intricate web through which the sunlight penetrates little by little. The idea behind it are the sun rays that shine through the date palms in an oasis. Not only is the building beautiful, the collection is also exquisite.

It is an eclectic collection of statues from Roman and Greek times, from Egypt and Asia. But also a nice selection of paintings, including some of Flemish masters, prominent French painters, a self portrait of Vincent Van Gogh and two beautiful paintings by Leonardo da Vinci. The Mona Lisa has been left behind in Paris but 'Potrait of a Woman, Called La Belle Ferronnière' is a wonderful replacement for perhaps the most famous painting in the world and certainly the most famous of Da Vinci.

But it is not the most expensive Da Vinci. That is Salvator Mundi, which was bought in New York last year for no less than 450 million USD by a Saudi prince, making it the most expensive painting ever. It found a place in the Louvre in Abu Dhabi. Ironically, the showpiece of the Louvre seems to be very shy, so shy even that we simply overlook it and miss the show stopper. A little disapointing. Still, I think the visit is more than successful. It is a magnificent museum with an excellent, varied collection of masterpieces. The museum is located on Saadiyat Island, a peninsula off the coast of Abu Dhabi (which is also an island) which should become the cultural district. With the construction of the Louvre, they already have a gem in their hands. But there is more to follow. In total there will be five top museums, all designed by famous architects in a futuristic style. For example, the largest Guggenheim museum is being built, designed like that of Bilbao, by Frank Gehry. Zaha Hadid (known to us for the design of the Havenhuis in Antwerp) also made the design just before her death of a cultural center. It will include an opera house, a concert hall and three theaters. And there is also the Zayed National Museum, designed by the British architect Norman Foster (known from the Millau viaduct in France).

But in Abu Dhabi there is also room for even more relaxation. On Yas Island, the island of pleasure, the Formula 1 circuit  is located that has been used since 2010. The Grand Prix traditionally takes place in November. Ferrari World was built next to the circuit. That way you stay in the atmosphere a bit. Ferrari World is a real amusement park with, among others, the fastest roller coaster in the world, F1 simulators but also children's attractions.

Abu Dhabi is what skyscrapers is concerned, not as impressive as Dubai, but here you find also a couple of architectural gems. Along the Corniche, on which you have a beautiful view from Heritage Village, you will find eg the 'newspaper skyscraper', which looks like a folded newspaper and they have their own 'leaning tower' that slopes even more (four times more no less) than the better known Leaning Tower of Pisa. That slope does not start until the 18th floor.

Next to the royal palace (say palaces) is the Emirates Palace hotel, the most luxurious hotel in the world and worth 8 stars. It is designed in beautiful Arabic style with around 100 domes. A staff of 1,000 is ready to pamper the guests. The luxurious interior consists of 1,000 chandeliers set with Swarovski crystal, gilded ceilings, marble floors with marquetry and walls set with a diamond here and there. Staying here costs 'only' 2,500 USD per night for the smallest room. This hotel is also hosting state and other guests of the Government of the Emirates.

But the most important building in Abu Dhabi is the beautiful Zayed mosque erected in honor of the beloved Emir. It is not the largest mosque, not the most impressive but the most expensive mosque in the world. A special tribute to their beloved leader.

Thanks to the discovery of the black gold in the sixties and the immense richness that resulted from it, and under the unremitting efforts of the Emir, the government can provide a good life to all the Emirati. From birth they receive a certain amount each month, education is free including the universities and health care is free. So the Emirati have a good life. For those who have plans: you can only be born as Emirati from an Emirati father and mother. Naturalization is not possible and children from mixed marriages can not get the Emirati nationality, and this in order to keep the bloodline clean.
The Emirates have, over the years, followed a less conservative course, less conservative than their neighboring countries such as Saudi Arabia. Nevertheless, there are of course large differences between men and women. That is the clearest when entering the mosque. For men, cover up to the elbows and pants just over the knee is enough. It is slightly different for women. Our hair should be completely covered, clothing should cover the body and reach upto hands and feet. I bought a black abaya for the occasion, the traditional dress for women. The traditional clothing for men is white. That dates back to earlier times when women were not allowed to go outside and they could therefore be perfectly dressed in black.

The large Zayed mosque is a gigantic structure consisting of 84 snow-white domes, the largest of which has a height of no less than 75 meters and a minaret of 107 meters in height on each of the four corners. It is a majestic structure made to honor the 'father of the Emirates' who is also buried here.

The floor of the gigantic courtyard is decorated with floral motifs. We walk barefoot through the immaculate colonnades with countless pillars in true Moorish style. The prayer hall, which can hold 40,000 believers, really breaks records. Here lies the largest carpet in the world and is of Iranian manufacture. It weighs no less than 47 tons. 1.2000 workers have worked on this for 18 months. And the largest chandelier in the world has dimensions of 10 m wide and 15 m height and a weight of no less than 1,800 kg. He is a sparkle to the eye and made of gold, copper, diamonds and Swarovski crystal. Outside this massive  chandelier there are 6 other chandeliers in the immense prayer room. The walls are decorated with flowers and flower vines set with semi-precious stones.

What a deeply intense sacred place this is, made from 20 types of marble and finished with masterful decorations. A place that makes you silent: silent because of the immense beauty, the purity, serenity and richness that beams from the mosque. A true tribute to their beloved leader and a true tribute to the soul of the Emirates: first God, then the homeland, then the president.