Day 9 - New Orleans, The Big Easy

What did Louis Prima, Mahalia Jackson, Louis Armstrong and Fats Domino have in common apart from the fact that they were excellent performers? They were all born in The Big Easy, being New Orleans: cradle of slave music, gospel music and jazz. New Orleans jazz, also called Dixieland music, originated in New Orleans at the beginning of the 20th century and the city is inextricably linked to jazz. As such I look forward to spending evenings in the clubs and cafes in Bourbon Street. But ....

Yesterday evening on arrival, I could not wait to get into Bourbon Street. There is plenty of ambiance because the New Orleans Saints, the local NFL team, is winning at the nearby Superdome against the Philadelphia Eagles. 

   

An exuberant (and often drunken) crowd with mainly large cups of alcohol in their hand go from bar to bar. A sweet scent betrays occasionally that something else is smoked than just the ordinary cigarette. On the typical balconies people dance and sing along and throw beads at the people in the street, a tradition that is used especially during Mardi Gras. A bead in exchange for a naked breast is not always legal in the city. Do not be persuaded to do something unlawful, just ask for a bead. 

I don’t see a lot of street artists and the music that sounds from the bars does not come from live jazz bands but from rock and pop music that blares out of the boxes. As far as music is concerned, it is not really what I expected from Bourbon Street and New Orleans. But yes, rock 'n roll and pop music are commercially more attractive than jazz. Neon signs and the attractive, cozy lit balconies give Bourbon Street something extra in the evening. Just forget that you do not hear the expected jazz music, that you do not actually see street musicians, but let yourself be carried away by the partying tourists and the still reasonably pleasant temperature. No alcohol intoxication for me  but I can not visit New Orleans without drinking a Hurricane cocktail, created in the forties after the prohibition by Pat O'Brien in New Orleans and which consists of rum, fruit juice and grenadine. It is one of the most popular drinks in New Orleans.

This morning we are visiting the French Quarter during the first hours of the day. The sun makes a cautious attempt to break through,  this afternoon rain is expected. It usually rains in New Orleans, so every ray of sunshine is a bonus.

The French Quarter is only separated from our hotel by the wide, elegant Canal Street. In the middle of Canal Street the beautiful old European trams run, separated with palm trees from the mainroad. This morning Bourbon Street is cleaned, bins are emptied, trucks supply bars and restaurants, because later today, the party in and around Bourbon Street will start all over again. Bourbon Street has nothing to do with 'bourbon' (whiskey), but is named after the house Bourbon, once the French royal family. New Orleans was once a French colony, hence. Bourbon Street is the artery of the French Quarter, the oldest part of New Orleans. In the daylight you can really enjoy the beautiful architecture of the houses. The balconies are finished with impressive ironwork that gives the whole a romantic touch. Most houses date from the 18th century, which is reflected in the architecture.

The Famous Door, Old Absinth House and Pat O'Brien's are some of the famous establishments on Bourbon Street. But also prominently present in the streets: the many voodoo stores. Voodoo is a religion that was developed by West African and Central African populations in the South of America. It is based on spiritual, occult religions and very important in Creole life where it is considered an ancestor worship. Creoles are the mishmash of settlers, slaves and Caribbean immigrants.

But the French Quarter is more than Bourbon Street. There is also the beautiful Royal Street with the exquisite LaBranche buildings as a highlight. 

The heart of the French Quarter is Jackson Square. The St. Louis Cathedral, built in 1794, towers above the square. 

In the middle of the square there is a mini park with a statue of General Jackson who defeated the British at the Battle of New Orleans. The small park is an oasis in the city center. It is bordered by even more beautiful buildings with long balconies and below shaded galleries, the so-called Pontalba buildings, named after sponsor and philanthropist Baroness Pontalba. 

The square has a great vibe. It is a busy meeting place. Live bands are palying, artists present their work, fortune tellers and tarot card readers predict the future. 

The horse drawn carriages depart from the square, leading you through the narrow streets of the French Quarter in a romantic way.

Also on the square is one of the most famous establishments in New Orleans: Café de Paris dating from 1852 and world famous for its beignets. But it is not easy to get in. Although the café is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, you have to be patient before you can put those heavenly beignets in your mouth. The waiting time for a seat is at least 1.5 hours, even for just a cup of coffee. Only in the nightly hours, you can just get in.

This afternoon no beignets for us but a delicious brunch at one of the oldest restaurants in New Orleans: the legendary 'Court of Two Sisters'. And more importantly, a jazz trio accompanies our lunch. We enjoy this delicious New Orleans feeling with local specialties on the shady courtyard of the restaurant, while the sun shines her warmth on us.
A visit to New Orleans is not complete without a trip on the Mississippi, on a real radar boat, the Natchez. The boat itself dates from 1975 but is built with the original parts of the old radar boats. Two hours of sailing on the second longest river in the United States. The wheel is driven by steam. Anyone who is interested may visit the engine room, but there are of course several bars on board with ... yes live jazz music. Finally J.

From the water we have a beautiful view of the city. The French Quarter, of course, but by extension greater New Orleans.

I finish my visit of New Orleans with dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe, as I started 11 days ago at the Hard Rock Café in Atlanta, under the watchful eye of Fats Domino, who looks down from the wall with a big smile. As one of the most famous sons of New Orleans, he is prominently present. He was also present during the opening. Fats Domino was one of the biggest and most popular musicians in the fifties. He passed away last year and was not that active in recent years. He was one of the main victims in 2005 of the drama that struck the city and of which it never really recovered: the passage of the devastating hurricane Katrina. He had to be saved from the roof of his house, but he lost everything, including countless golden plates.
One of the deadliest hurricanes in the United States caused more than 1,800 deaths and the flight of more than half of the New Orleans residents. Due to the slow reconstruction of the city, not many residents returned. Large parts of the city are still devastated. Fortunately, the French Quarter, due to its slightly elevation, was largely spared.
At the time, the aid started slowly, which caused a scandal. The fact that the local authorities were not able to help their own people was unbelievable. The fact that it concerned mainly a colored population group of which the majority was also poor, caused accusations of racism. Fact is that the population was abandoned from the beginning, making the once unique New Orleans never the same again.

Personally, after two days of New Orleans, I do not feel that I am finished with this city. Somewhere a small voice says 'Mardi Gras'. And why not? Why not return to the Big Easy on a 'Fat Tuesday' to admire those beautiful parades and maybe collect some beads. Because whatever the New Orleans past also entails, they party as the best.