Day 2 - From forts to forts

The ideal way to get to know a new country is to soak up a little colour local. And where is that better to find than at a local market?
The Omani capital of Muscat lies next to the water and on the waterfront lies the old fish souk. Not only local atmosphere but also local odor J.  Although a brand new souk was built, fishmongers and buyers continue to hold onto this long-standing market. And so I stare into hundreds of pairs of fish eyes this morning. Big fish, small fish, fish that I have never seen before, it can all be found here. Even species caught in Europe (such as sole and dorade) look completely different here. I don't really care for the fish, but for the atmosphere and especially the locals. I am particularly interested in the men's clothing. They wear the typical  dishdasha, say a dress or tunic, usually in white but also in other colors. Their headgear can take various forms: from the ordinary tea towel known to us mainly because of the Saudis, to the turban but also to the typical kumah, a kind of hat that looks a lot like the African headdress. Now the question is: did Oman bring this to Africa or did the Omanis bring it back from their conquests there? In any case, it is clear evidence of the link between Oman and the African continent.

 

The history of Oman is most evident in the various forts in the country. These forts protected the trade routes between the coast and the interior.
And just like with all real estate, for forts also count: location, location, location. It is even the basic idea that a fort must comply with: a impenetrable fortress, located in places where the enemy is at a disadvantage. Location is everything. The Nakhl fortress that we visit first lies like a crown on top of a rock. A wonderful example of how architecture and nature go hand in hand. The fort served to protect the trade route but also the oasis that surrounds it. It is considered one of the most impressive forts in the country. Especially because of the way in which the mud fortress was built on the erratic rock. Here and there a part of the rock protrudes making it part of the building itself. The basic structure dates back to the 3rd century AD, but the current fort was mainly rebuilt in the 17th century. Inside the thick walls you can see how frugal forts were furnished at the time. Even the rooms of the wali (the governor) are barely decorated. From the lookout towers you can enjoy a beautiful view. And so the location of this fort becomes clear.

The hot springs of Al Thowarrah are only a few kilometers away from the fort. They are surrounded by date palms and the famous irrigation canals, the falaj. The water comes from  the top of the mountains and forms a small river in which currently children play, women do their laundry and adults look for refreshment. Ideal for a picnic lunch. Oman has always been very smart with water. Thanks to a good distribution plan in which the water is collected in basins and used for drinking water and for irrigation, everyone has what is needed.
After lunch a second fort is on the program. The mud fort of Al Hazm was built in the 18th century by sultan Bin Saif II of the Al Yarubi tribe and was at that time the most technically progressive fort.

When he was appointed imam, he made Al Hazm the capital. The fort was therefore not only built as a defense fortress, but also as a palace for the head of state. That means that some beautiful decorations were  applied. You will find the first immediately upon entering the fort: the beautiful wooden entrance gate. 

But defense mechanisms have also been introduced. Should the enemy get past this gate, he was welcomed "warm" by liters of boiling date syrup. Yes, the palm trees in this oasis only produce dates and they were not only used as food. Admittedly, the army could spend months on six dates per day, but liters of syrup were also made in the fort's warehouses to be used as a means of defense. And for those who still got past the sticky and especially hot stuff, there lied a well ready to welcome any tresspasser. The fort has two enormous round defense towers, one in the north and one in the south. These were used for cannons, also a break of style with other forts. These were mainly built to withstand gunshots. The walls of this fort are so thick that they could also withstand cannon fire. After his death, the imam was buried in his beloved fortress. The fort is so beautiful that he undoubtedly wanted to enjoy this incredible fortress even after his death. And we enjoyed it alive with him today.