Day 4 - From architectural gems to natural treasures

On the occasion of his 30-year reign, Sultan Qaboos  commissioned the Great Mosque, the largest in the entire country. It took 6 years to complete and during the inauguration in 2001 all imams in the world were invited. It is an immense structure and more than worth a visit. During my nightly arrival in Muscat a few days ago, we drove past the beautifully illuminated mosque and I realized then that the mosque could become the highlight of our visit to Muscat. It is also the only mosque in Oman that can be visited by non-Muslims. And this morning my expectations are more than met. The five minarets are popping up from far. Thanks to our early arrival time, at the opening of the mosque at 8 am, we can enjoy the wonderful greenery and the rippling water in front of the entrance of the mosque in all peace and quiet.

The golden dome of the mosque shines in the sunlight. It is 50 m high and the crowning glory of a marble masterpiece. The virgin white marble from which walls and floors have been constructed almost hurts the eyes. In total, the mosque has room for 20,000 worshippers, of which 8,000 in the inside and outside courts and 750 in the women's prayer room. But no matter how impressive the outside is, the inside surprises even more. The large prayer hall, reserved exclusively for men, offers room for 6,500 worshippers. But it is not the surface that makes this room grand. It are the rich decorations and especially the impressive central chandelier, built in Swarovski crystal and made in Italy. It weighs more than eight tons and with 1,100 lamps it hangs like a beacon of light under the central dome. This dome is finished on the inside with beautiful mosaics. In addition to this giant chandelier, you will find a total of 35 chandeliers that illuminate the room. Beneath our feet lies a gigantic and especially luxurious Persian carpet, on which the refined fingers of no fewer than 800 women knotted for four years. It is one of the largest and most expensive carpets in the world. The walls are tiled with Iranian tiles. And unlike other mosques, the room contains stained glass windows, just like in our churches.

The Al Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi, meantime grabbed many records from this mosque, but this still remains a gem. And in contrast to the abundance in Abu Dhabi and the opulence that prevails there, this mosque continues to radiate a certain modesty and is above all a place of peace and reflection.

The Jabrin fort is sometimes called the most beautiful fort of Oman and the most precious pearl of Omani architecture. That’s because this fort was built as a residence and not as a fortress. It was built in the late 17th century by Imam Bel Arab Bin Sultan Al Yarubi, the son of the leader who was able to expel the Portuguese. It has three floors and was built in a time of peace and therefore of prosperity and development. 

The Imam himself paid for the construction and his love for art, astronomy, sciences and literature can be felt everywhere. Where other forts are mainly constructed in clay and stone, and are otherwise frugally decorated, that is not the case here. Just think of the use of wood, dazzling ceiling paintings, arches with beautiful calligraphy, decorated windows, beautiful high niches. One of the most famous reception rooms is the ‘Sun and Moon’ room with a masterly ceiling.

The fort is also nicely decorated with Chinese pottery, glassware, pillows and metal objects.

The Imam was buried in the fort after his brother seized power and he died in the raid on the fort. Even after his death, he wanted to stay close to his artwork.

Time to trade in our minibus for a jeep. Because after this portion of culture it's time for nature. We drive via the beautiful Wadi Ghul to Jebel Shams, the Sun Mountain. The Wadi Ghul offers a fascinating environment of rugged limestone mountains. On our way up, we come across small villages, single houses and here and there a lost mountain goat. Our final goal is Jebel Shams, the highest point of the Akhdar Mountains, part of the Hajar Mountains, and of Oman tout court. The actual summit is at 3,009 m but this is an off limit military area. From a plateau at over 2,000 m we have a beautiful view of what is called the "Grand Canyon" of Oman. It is as if the earth has split in two in front of us. We are staring at a depth of more than 1,500 m. You can only feel very small in the face of this beautiful nature.

Our last stop today throws us back in time. Along the way we have already seen some old clay villages strategically located on the flanks of the mountains.  

In Al Hamra we visit a traditional clay village that is more than 300 years old. Bait Al Safah, the house that we visit, is more like a museum and residents of the village show different crafts. It seems as if time has stood still. Despite the poor condition of some houses and the lack of modern amenities, houses are still inhabited in the village. Especially by Indian, Bengali or Pakistani guest workers who renovate the houses and can live cheaply this way. The area is amazing, in the middle of a beautiful oasis. In it grow banana trees and of course date palms. A pleasurable  walk through the village and oasis is the perfect end to this day.