Day 5 - the interior of Oman

Nizwa is the capital of the interior of Oman. It is located in an area with many oases and is surrounded by various villages. The fertile soil provides for many palm trees and many dates, vegetables and fruit. It lies at the crossroads of various caravan routes between Muscat and Dhofar, in the south. Nizwa was proclaimed capital several times in history, but now it is primarily the birthplace of Islamism in Oman.

And of course there is a fort in the historic capital. It is the first thing we visit this morning. The fort originally dates from the 9th century but was vastly rebuilt in the 17th century. It lies central in the enjoyable town and the first thing that stands out is the huge majestic defense tower. It is 20m high and a whopping 36m in diameter. It is therefore the largest defense tower in Oman. We run up the stairs towards the cannon platform at a height of 14 meters. Under our feet the fort has been filled with rubble and earth. Through the holes made for the cannons, we can see the surroundings. The wall is still  6m high on this platform. Wooden steps  are constructed so that we can look over the battlements. And what a view. A beautiful oasis, with hundreds of palm trees. On one side, the majestic Hajar Mountains are lying majestically in the background. On the other side of the fort we have an undisturbed view of the Sultan Qaboos Mosque of Nizwa.

 

With firing holes, cannons deployed, customary wells and the use of date syrup, the fort was made to withstand any attack. It was therefore considered to be impenetrable, and it turned out that way. We also visit the prison and the various rooms in the fort.
Next to the fort is the lively souk. Everything is traded here from fish, goats, to weapons and jewelry. The latter is not so surprising since Nizwa is mainly known for its silverware. But you can also find the ubiquitous incense, jugs, perfumes and spices here. And dates, in all types and qualities, one sweeter than the other. The fresh fruit and vegetables are sold in a neighboring air-cooled new building.

What also is for sale here are the silver khanjars. The khanjar is the official weapon of Oman. It is a dagger that sits in a curved shaft, this to prevent the tip from sticking in the body when you bent over. It now has only a ceremonial value and is used by the Omani for festivities and formal occasions.
We drive deeper into the arid landscape. Along the way, herds of dromedaries cross the road. We are on our way to Mizfah.

 

 

This old village seems to be a shadow of itself for the most part, as it consists mainly of ruins. But here and there an owner proceeds with the restoration of a building. One already succeeded more than the other. By sometimes copying the old style meticulously, you get a kind of bad imitation effect so that it looks like a kitschy building that sits completely lost in an ancient village. From the remains of the buildings, it looks like they have mainly belonged to the wealthy class. With beautiful decorations, houses with multiple floors, niches and arches, mighty piece of work and beautiful woodwork, this must have been the more expensive neighborhood.

A little further the barren landscape changes to red sand. We have arrived in Wahiba Sands, the largest desert in Oman. Not less than 80 pct of the country consists of desert. So it's time to exchange our minibus again for a  4X4. They take us to a tented camp in the desert where we will stay the evening and night. Well tents. On the outside they look like tents, but on the inside I see stone walls and a complete bathroom with every comfort. There is even air conditioning, and believe me we can use it well here. The temperatures are already incredibly high the entire trip. In the desert, the air is drier than on the humid coast, but still.

The sun always rises and sets, wherever in the world. But in some places, sunsets are just that little bit more spectacular. Especially of the African ones, I keep vivid memories. The sunsets in the Sahara where the sun disappears behind the horizon of that immeasurable sandbox. The Kalahari lights where the sky turns bright red. The evening sky of Zimbabwe changes in shades of red. In Namibia the sun disappears behind those spectacular high sand dunes. And last year I enjoyed the absolute silence of the Great Arabian desert. Even today the sun rises and sets.
But first the dunes are waiting for us for an adrenaline rush of about an hour or two. The Great Arabian Desert does of course not have the giant dunes of Namibia, but they are still high and steep enough to take you on a roller coaster.

Ready, steady, go. While the other jeeps still drive rather conservatively in the dunes, our driver is a real rally pilot. With four screaming women in the car, he shows us his best tricks. Steep up, abruptly stopping, sideways on two tires, or we fly in a dune dive. At certain times, our tires lose all contact with the sand. Or how an immense sandbox becomes a playground for adults. Our car is buried under all that drifting sand and leaves deep marks in the sand.

 

After two hours of playing it is time for a nostalgic moment. I look for a quiet place for the highlight of the day. While the wind makes the grains of sand drift with impetuous force and no one dune will be the same tomorrow, the sun sets deeper and deeper towards the horizon.

 

And then the unthinkable happens. In the previously cloudless sky, a cloud appears directly in front of the sun.

 

 

Our big fireball disappears behind a lost cloud and we are denied a beautiful Arabian sunset. The sun makes  way to a beautiful large full moon. Her light shines over our tented camp. While the rest of the guests have retired to their tents, I enjoy the absolute silence and the stars in the sky from my terrace.

 

 

I leave my last footsteps of the day in the sand before I go to sleep under thousands of stars. Even today the sun set albeit without giving us a look at the normally beautiful spectacle. And she will rise again tomorrow morning, her first rays shining over those beautiful orange, red sand dunes. And with that thought I rest my head while thousands of sparkling stars watch over me. A fairy tale of one night.