Day 2 - Route to Baghdad

We are on the so-called route to Baghdad, the former oh-so-important trade route between Jordan and Iraq.

A snow-white architectural masterpiece appears on the horizon. This glitter contrasts sharply with the dead environment. But nothing is what it seems. We are in Al Azraq and in reality this is a place of great sadness. Because this apparent architectural design consists of hundreds of thousands of white metal houses from UNHCR, the UN refugee organization. Al Azraq is the second largest refugee camp in Jordan and can accommodate up to 300,000 people. Here you cannot ignore and rationalize the war in neighboring Syria. This camp is the sad result of homelessness, of hundreds of thousands of people fleeing war, fleeing crimes against humanity, fleeing crimes against the own population ... It is not a pretty sight but it makes the biggest refugee crisis of recent years tangible. A place of intense sadness, the daily reality for millions of refugees. If we find this normal in any way, we lose all humanity. This can’t leave anybody untouched.

But perhaps this white glitter also stands for hope. The hope of so many here to leave this arid environment behind and to be able to return to their homes, to wrecked houses and destroyed cities. To the place that they will still call home, no matter what happens.

A little further is the air base of Al Azraq. From here, almost 200 Belgians participated in Desert Falcon, the Belgian-Dutch operation in the  international coalition that carried out attacks on the IS positions in Iraq. We are here at 60 km from the border with Syria and 245 km with Iraq. The Iraqi capital Baghdad is located about 750 km from Al Azraq, an hour flight per F16. The French and Jordanians also had their base here. Military aviation has a rich tradition here, thanks to its good visibility and excellent flying weather. That history began during the last years of the First World War and what was called the Arab Revolution. Jordan will forever be associated with one of the most historical figures: Thomas Edward Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia and former soldier, archaeologist and writer. At the time he had established one of his headquarters here in Qasr Azraq. He used the plains around the castle as an airstrip for the planes. 

It is here that he led the revolution against the Turks, alongside the Arabs and in consultation with Hussein, the great-grandfather of the current Jordanian king, which ultimately meant the end of the Ottoman Empire. The room above the portal, where the tactics were discussed at the time, looks very austerely, a particularly small and dark room, but historically very important. 

The castle was built with basalt stone on Roman remains. The most striking detail of the castle is the three-tonne door that was also built from basalt. And, believe it or not, even now the door moves on its hinges.

Qasr Azraq is one of the so-called desert castles, built by the first Islamic dynasty, east and south of the Jordanian capital Amman. The purpose of these buildings was many: as a fortress or hunting lodge or as a meeting place between the Caliph and his counselors.

Qasr Amra is a desert castle from the 8th century and is a former hunting lodge that was intended as a retreat for the caliph and his family. Only the hammam, the bathhouse, is left. It has an intimate, cozy and nicely decorated interior, made for the pleasures of life. Especially the well-preserved frescoes are worth the detour. 

The 250 frescoes represent hunting scenes, but also bathing women. They are beautifully detailed. The crowning glory is the starry sky in the steam bath with signs of the zodiac. The well that was used to fill the baths has also been preserved outside. 

             

This bathhouse was rightfully placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Small but beautiful. A jewel in the Jordanian desert.