Day 3 - Jerash, a Roman triumph

Umm Qais is located in the far north of Jordan. The city was founded in the 3rd century BC, but experienced its heyday under the reign of the Roman emperor Trajan. Umm Qais was the bishop's seat during the Byzantine period. You cannot miss the remaining columns erected in basalt, remnants of the octagonal Byzantine church. Next to these remnants lies the still magnificent amphitheater. 

Whether the basalt stone was pleasant to sit on, I don't know, but the acoustics must have been great and the views unparalleled. 

How about an undisturbed view of the Sea of ​​Galilee or Lake of Tiberias as you want. The lake plays an important role in the Bible because the life of Jesus takes place more or less in the fishing villages around it. It was also the place where Jesus alledgedly walked on water. 

And how about a stunning view of the nearby Golan Heights, annexed by Israel since 1981. However, this annexation is not internationally recognized, which is why we are just a few steps away from Syria. From this place you have a view of Israel (across the lake), Syria (the Golan Heights) and beyond Syria, the mountains of Lebanon. If you ever want to make sense of the situation in the Middle East, this is a good start.

The hippodrome is deserted today, with the exception of a few tourists. More than 1.000 years after the last horse ran its laps here, it is hard to imagine the gigantic racecourse. 15,000 spectators, so many people visited the horse races during the heyday of Jerash. Horses, carriages and drivers raced on the edge of glory while wheels cracked, bends were sharply cut, the sound of metal on metal echoed and horses rushed to the finish line. How many Ben Hur’s have given here the best of themselves and of the horse to the delight of the many spectators? Today only the departure and arrival gates remain and a piece of what was once the grandstand from which horse and driver were encouraged.

Emperor Hadrian watched from the imperial tribune during his visit to the city, but this one only exists in our imagination.

The visit of Emperor Hadrian was perpetuated in the beautiful triumphal arch from the year 129, which adorns the entrance to Jerash.

Jerash is generally regarded as the best preserved Roman city in the Middle East. When I enter the site through the actual gateway, I immediately believe that Jerash or Gerasa, as the city was then called, was also one of the most beautiful and richest cities at the time. Because the entrance gate sparkles just as hard as the triumphal arch.

The road leads to the oval forum that is surrounded by beautiful columns. The forum has enormous dimensions and what is immediately noticeable is the use of both Doric and Ionic elements.

After all, the city was designed by the Greeks but later further developed by the Romans. The forum used for parties, meetings and as a trading place is dominated by the temple of Zeus built on the remains of a Greek shrine.

Next to the temple is the southern theater that can accommodate 5,000 spectators. It has been beautifully preserved and has wonderful acoustics, as evidenced by the many performances that still take place here 2.000 years after date.

On the Cardo Maximus you no longer have to pay attention to horse and carriage but you still have to pay attention to the carriage tracks that were drawn as deep grooves in the paving stones. I stroll along the 700 m long main street where at that time the shops and market stalls were located with a big assortment of goods that made the city internationally famous.

Jerash was after all an important city and thus had access to exotic goods thanks to the caravan route. I can almost smell the spices from India and the incense from the south of the Arabian peninsula, I wonder how the ivory from Africa or the pearls from the Red Sea were displayed in the stores.

Along the Cardo is not only an impressive colonnade remaining, but also the Nymphaeum, a grand and at the time mostly invigorating fountain where the water at the top flowed down from lion heads.

Oh how wonderful that sounds with these currently very high temperatures, just to be able to refresh feet and hands. One problem: the water disappeared with the residents. A little further is a monumental gate and stairs that lead to the Temple of Artemis. Supreme god Zeus usually has the largest temple, but not here. The temple of his daughter Artemis, also patron of the city, is located high on a hill.

Due to its size, it is the most important building in the city. The beautiful Corinthian columns, which seem to be stacked on top of each other like a set of blocks, make the archeology blood flow faster through my veins. What maestro’s contributed to the construction of the city. Artists, the best in their field, who made every building and every pillar and arch into a sparkling glitter. But from the once thriving Jerash with its dazzling temples, gigantic forum, infinite colonnades and perfectly built theaters, now only an archaeological site remains. This is partly due to some severe earthquakes and climatic conditions, destruction and vacancy, but also due to the arrival of the Byzantines after the Greeks and Romans. They built churches with the stones of the temples. So also a ‘cathedral’ and various remains of churches and associated mosaics can be found here. For years the city lay hidden under a layer of sand until in 1806 a German archaeologist excavated the city. The old Gerasa emerged layer by layer. And that old Gerasa is still a proud Roman city that catapulted us back into history 2.000 years ago. And I liked what I saw.