Day 5 - Petra, the pinnacle of Nabatese architecture

At times it seems as if the rock walls touch each other above our heads. To the left of the gorge we can still see the remains of the water canal that was excavated more than 2,000 years ago. With our heads down we grind the last few meters through the Siq, the 1,200 m long narrow gorge that was modeled by water and wind and is considered to be the access to the city. A walk that raises the heartbeat, not only because of the distance and warmth, but also because of the prospect of coming face to face with what will undoubtedly be the highlight of the journey. A moment I've been waiting for for 30 years. One last turn and then in a few moments we will see the Al Khazneh. In the distance, I hear the hooves of an inbound horse. Is it Indiana Jones reliving his adventure or one of the many horse-drawn carriages that brings hundreds of tourists to the entrance of the hidden city every day? 

Unintentionally, I raise my head for a second and in a flash I get to see a column from the facade. Oh, surprise a bit ruined. 

As soon as we leave the shady gorge, the guide aligns us. On count three, our heads ared raised and the beautiful facade of Petra's Treasury shines in front of us in the sunlight.

My heart skips a beat while I admire one of the seven new wonders of the world. I only hear my own breathing and the clicking of cameras. The facade is of a stunning beauty. And this is not the work of builders and masons. The hidden city of Petra is located in this arid and inhospitable part of Jordan, hidden between canyons and mountains. The city was partly carved in the soft sandstone by the Nabataeans. They lived in the classical antiquity in the Middle East. Nabataeans initially survived by raiding caravans on the Arabian Peninsula and eventually organizing and  securing trade for the Romans themselves. It brought them enormous wealth. They founded different cities along the caravan routes for which they first appealed to the greatest Greek architects to eventually develop their own style. They themselves became master builders and city planners and built Petra as their capital in 300 BC. The soft red sandstone was ideal for carving out their city, the finishing touches were provided by the eroding power of rain and wind. As if Mother Earth also wanted to have her say in this pearl of Nabatese stonemason's architecture. 

The empire of the Caravan kings was governed from Petra. Petra herself was located on the important incense route. Over the centuries, Petra lost importance mainly due to the loss of independence under the reign of Emperor Trajan, but also because the Red Sea became more important for the transport of goods. For 700 years Petra was forgotten by the West, but not by the Bedouins. When the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt was on his way from Aleppo to Cairo in 1812, they told him about the ruins. After winning their trust, they led him to Petra. Would his heart also have skipped a beat in finding that immensely, improbably, impressing yet forgotten, hidden, ruined old city ... and the Treasury? Probably. Although archaeological excavations were needed since the beginning of 1920 to partially restore the city to its original state.

It also became the place where every prominent Nabataean wanted to be buried, which ultimately yielded more than 1,000 rock graves.

The most beautiful graves were of course reserved for the Nabatese kings. And the Treasury is already an almost extraterrestrial example of that.

Because contrary to what the name suggests, the so-called ‘Treasury Chamber the Pharaoh’ is the burial temple of King Aretas III. In addition to the beautiful Corinthian columns and royal refined, elaborate decorations, there is also an urn at the top. According to various legends there would be a treasure in the urn. The bullet holes in the façade prove that some people also believe this, but the urn contains only solid stone.

Petra is of course more than just its most famous building. A little further we find other rock graves, simpler and smaller graves, and barely decorated. 

The rock tombs are reminiscent of rows in the theater, which is why this place is called the Theater necropolis. The real theater is right next to it. This classical amphitheater, after Roman design, was carved out in the rocks and could seat up to 6,000 spectators. After the takeover of the city by the Romans, the capacity was expanded to 8,000.

On the other side we really get into higher spheres. Literally but also figuratively. Because high in the mountain, four beautiful tombs were carved out, with such allure that they must have been intended for kings. That is why they are collectively called the royal tombs. 

A climb of fifteen minutes first brings us to the High Urn Tomb, named after the urn above the portal. Even though the test of time has contributed to the decline, the facade is still of a royal standard. The gigantic space inside is still accessible unlike other graves and the Treasury. The Petra sandstone had an incredible  color pattern! Hard to believe that it also used to serve as a church.

Next to the Urn Tomb is the so-called Silk Tomb with beautiful color shades. The wavy pattern looks like a colorful silk scarf bulging in the wind. How beautiful can sandstone be!

The Corinthian Tomb has a striking similarity with the Treasury. Admittedly, the power of wind and water erosion has been going at it, but the Corinthian columns after which the tomb is named are still clearly present. The upper part is a clear copy of the Treasury. Someone a little jealous of the beauty of the Treasury?

Someone who saw it grand was undoubtedly the owner of the Palace Tomb. The name already suggests that this is a small palace. The width of the tomb is therefore the first thing that stands out, besides ... the three floors, very unusual for Petra. Even though erosion and centuries of neglect have done their job here, the size of the building remains impressive and the decorations have been beautifully preserved. This grave lives up to its name.

During the rule of the Romans, they expanded the city. As mentioned earlier, they expanded the amphitheater but also built themselves. Along the Cardo Maximus, the main street of Petra, the remains of the columns still recall Roman times.

 Along the Cardo stands one of the most impressive buildings, the great Temple.

The Cardo ends at the Temenos Gate, built as a triumphal arch for Emperor Trajan. 

Behind this arch lies the best preserved freestanding temple of the Nabateans: the Qasr Al Bint Faraun. Not only detached, best preserved but also the tallest building in the center of the city. This impressive building must have been the main temple of the city. The three chambers indicate that three gods were worshiped.

Those who want can also climb the 877 stairs to ‘The Monastery’  in harsh conditions, such as heat, altitude, sun, sometimes unstable ground ... In exchange for the effort, you can take a look at Petra's largest building. The Monastery is said to be the tomb of King Obodas and appears to be a larger version of the Treasury. I let the climb pass me by. Besides, don't be persuaded to do the climb on the back of a donkey. Accidents do happen.

30 years, that is how long it took me to get here. My archeology dream was also on the back burner for 30 years. Today amidst this wonder of the world and with my eyes closed, I see myself on my knees with a shovel and a brush. It is clear that much of the city still lies beneath meters of sand.

Petra is more than a ruin. It is the pinnacle of Nabatese architecture, a silent witness to what was once a beautiful capital.