Day 8 - Idyllic Martha’s Vineyard

Cape Cod lies, as it were, as a raised arm in front of the coast of Massachusetts. As if it wants to make a fist and thus strengthen its position as a tourist hotspot. I don't have to tell you that the beaches seem endless, the scenery is at its most beautiful and that colonial and cozy villages are omnipresent. Around 13 million tourists come here every summer and that says it all.

I explore Cape Cod and the surrounding area from Hyannis, the largest city on the Cape. It was one of the first holiday resorts here and popular with a number of presidents. The best known estate here is undoubtedly that of the Kennedy clan. Of course heavily protected from land, but from the water you have an undisturbed view of the meantime vast domain.

And if you are on the water, keep your eyes on the water. Because large groups of whales arrive here in spring. Especially in July and August you have a great chance of spotting fin whales, minke whales and humpback whales. But today, at the end of September, there are only sun rays shining through the white clouds on the water. A boat trip of about an hour takes me to New England's largest holiday island: Martha’s Vineyard, also known by the locales as the Vineyard. The idyllic island with dreamy beaches, cute houses and cozy little villages with car-free streets is one of the highlights for me on this trip. It has long been the summer residence of the rich and famous. So it's time to discover it for myself. The island is not large and has three interesting cities that are definitely worth a visit. Traveling around on the island can be done in different ways: rent a car, ride a bike, book a tour through the many providers, take a taxi, or take public transportation. Buses run frequently and punctually. Just like everything else on the Vineyard, it is more expensive than on the mainland, but with a day ticket of $18 you can cross the island to your heart's content.

The ferry from Hyannis arrives in Oak Bluffs, the place where tourism on Martha’s Vineyard began at the time. One of the biggest tourist attractions here are the so-called ‘gingerbread houses’. These originated from one of the first groups of tourists who came to the island. The Methodists came here every summer and held their ‘camp meetings’ under large open tents or in the open air. Participants who returned every year built their tents on wooden platforms that later became simple wooden houses.

These simple houses were more complexly decorated over the years and became works of art of refinement with the addition of elaborate balconies, colorful paint, delicate-looking window and door frames and beautiful carvings. The gingerbread houses were born. And today this must be one of my favorite places on Martha’s Vineyard.

Hidden in the greenery and parallel to the main street, these fairytale-like houses are situated around the Tabernacle, a round covered meeting place dating from the year 1880 and also a remnant from the Methodist era as this is the place where they held their religious celebrations. It is wonderful to walk through the maze of alleys or to stop for a  moment of self-reflection at the Tabernacle. A colorful and very relaxing haven.

Vineyard Haven is the second most important village on the island. The name Vineyard refers to the discovery of wild grapes that flourish in the mild climate. The English discoverer of it named the island after his daughter Martha. Vineyard Haven is the main port on the island and is open all year round. Along the main street you will find colorful shops and along the water you will find tasty fish restaurants with a view of the wooden jetties and boats on the water.

The most elegant city on Martha’s Vineyard is without a doubt Edgartown, in the southeast of the island. It is a prosperous city thanks to the lucrative whale hunting in the 19th century. The captains of the whale boats built beautiful stately homes in federal style with a view of the harbor: the so-called Captains Houses.

They are beautifully preserved to this day and give the city a certain standing. Everywhere in the city you will find snow-white, wooden, lovely houses and stately churches with high spiers. With the necessary greenery, this is undoubtedly a relaxing place to spend the summers. The Vineyard is primarily a summer retreat with second residences.

At the entrance of Edgartown harbor stands a beautiful lighthouse in the middle of the beach. From the Captains Houses it is only a short sandy walk to the lighthouse. A wonderful place to relax and take in the surroundings. Lighthouses have something romantic and certainly in this beautiful, peaceful environment. At the port entrance it is a coming and going of sailing boats that leave the port with hoisted sails. It is a beautiful day for a sailing trip because the fluffy white clouds are slowly disappearing and a magical blue sky appears.

Edgartown is also known to the general public as the backdrop for the 1975 Jaws movie, directed by Steven Spielberg. The film is considered the first real summer blockbuster and is Steven Spielberg's first major success.

Many scenes from places and buildings in the fictional village of Amity were filmed here in Edgartown. Not that the residents are proud of their moment of glory. It is not something that the villagers like to be reminded of, even though many had a role in the film. So forget souvenir shops, forget something that is reminiscent of the movie or sharks in general. It is a thing of the past, dead and buried, although there are guided tours that relive the magic of Hollywood. Edgartown itself does not need Hollywood magic. It is an absolute picture and if perfection exists, this is undoubtedly it.