Day 9 - The cradle of freedom

In 1620 a group of religious puritans of Calvinist origin left England in search of religious freedom. In England they were expelled under King James I. 102 of them eventually boarded the Mayflower via a detour through the Dutch city of Leiden. The ship left Southampton on September 16th in search of a better life in the New World. A trip only suitable for the brave, because the journey across the Atlantic Ocean was not for wimps. Heavy sea, horrible weather en route, malnutrition and illness scourged the pilgrims. Their destination was Jamestown in Northern Virginia where they had been promised a piece of land. After a journey of 66 days across the Atlantic, land came in sight but they were about 1,000 km from the intended goal. Due to the strong winds from the southeast, they were off course and found themselves on the Cape Cod peninsula. With water and food on site and the prospect of a difficult journey to their actual destination, they decided to set up a community in Cape Cod near today's Provincetown. After a short stay on Cape Cod, they reboarded the Mayflower but would never reach Jamestown. Even now the wind hampered them, and they landed in Plymouth about 65 km south of Boston. They decided to settle here permanently and that is how Plymouth Colony was born. The rock that helped them to land at the time is still on site in a protective pavilion in Plymouth. 

The pilgrims founded their settlement on the waterfront. After a failed harvest, food became scarce and during the harsh, dark, cold winter that was only survived the strongest, more than half of the weakened settlers died. They were buried during the night for fear that the Indians would find out that the colony had already been halved. They were buried on what is now Coles Hill opposite the place where the first pilgrims set foot on land. Although the Indians were seen as the enemy, in early spring the settlers took the step to call in their help. The fear of not surviving the next winter was real with the Pilgrim Fathers. Leader Edward Winslow met Massasoit, the leader of the Wampanoag whom he asked for peace and trade. Massasoit saw an ally in the Pilgrims and convinced the governor to sign a treaty that would assist the colonists and the Indians. The surviving Pilgrims were helped with the cultivation, harvesting and preparation of corn, potatoes and beets, among other things. As thanks for their help, the settlers held a harvest and thanksgiving party for the Indians in November. And that thanksgiving party is still being held today on the fourth Thursday of November: Thanksgiving. It is considered the most important holiday in the United States where the whole family from all over the country or world comes together to say thank you for a good harvest and for all the other good things that have happened over the past year. Traditionally, turkey, sweet potato, corn, cranberries and green beans are on the menu,  all still reminiscent of that first harvest festival. Since Thanksgiving always falls on a Thursday, many Americans also get Friday off from their employer. This Friday is traditionally the start for Christmas shopping. Due to the large crowds in stores, this is called Black Friday.

There is not much left of the first settlers in Plymouth today. Massasoit received a statue that towers over Coles Hill. Outside the city there is the Plimoth Plantation, a sort of museum that depicts the life of the Pilgrims. Normally the harbor is home to the Mayflower II, a replica of the ship with which the settlers arrived. But currently this ship has been in dry dock for restoration for several years.

Forget Philadelpia, forget Washington DC. Boston is at the cradle of American independence. Because it is here in the capital of New England that the uprising against the English was fascilitated. Extra taxes levied by the home country were not accepted here. Especially not because the colony was obliged to pay, but was not represented in the government. Skirmishes of all hands including the Boston Massacre where the English army shot at a mob of workers and sailors, eventually led to American independence.

A great start to your Boston tour is the Boston Common, Boston's public park the oldest public park in the United States, and the heart of Boston's cultural and sporting life. 

Boston Common is also the start of the Boston Freedom Trail, a 4 km walk along 16 historic sites. The Massachusetts State House is located on the north side of the park. With a golden dome that radiates in the sunlight, you can't miss it. The State House is designed by Charles Bulfinch, a design that also served as a model for the later Capitol in Washington DC.

In the southeast corner of Boston Common is Park Street Church with a striking spire tower built to a design by Christopher Wren. The church is still one of the most influential churches in the city.

It is not difficult to find your way from here. Follow the red brick line on the footpath and it will take you to all of the following historic locations on the Freedom Trail. The next stop is just next to the church, the Granary Burying Ground. The cemetery often appears in movies shot in Boston. But the cemetery is also of historical importance: three of the signatories of the Declaration of Independence are buried here: John Hancock, Samuel Adams and Robert Treat Paine, but also for example, the parents of Benjam Franklin and victims of the Boston Massacre.

Boston's oldest graveyard is next to King's Chapel, a granite church that stands on the site of a previously built wooden chapel. The red brick line leads us further to the statue of Benjamin Franklin and the former Boston Latin School where only a plaque on the floor reminds us of it. The statue of Benjamin stands in front of the former Boston town hall in beautiful French style. On the corner of School Street and Washington Street is the Old Corner Bookstore, the literary meeting place of a select company of writers : Hawthorne, Longfellow and Harriet Beecher Stowe, known from the ‘Cabine of Uncle Tom’. One of the most striking buildings is the Old South Meeting Point.

Its high point tower stands out against the surrounding modern giant buildings. This building had the largest capacity for meetings in colonial Boston. Over the years, more and more protests were made at these large gatherings, against the stamp duty, say the taxes that the colonials had to pay to the British crown. It was here in 1773 that Samuel Adams gave the signal that led to the Boston Tea Party. But even more striking is the Old State House a little further, which bravely clings to its history but almost disappears as a colonial gem against the tall skyscrapers of the Financial District.

It is the oldest surviving building from the colonial era and a wonderful example of colonial architecture. It is not only the oldest, but without a doubt also the most beautiful remaining building. It was then the seat of the colonial government. Later it had different functions  and it now serves as a museum. It is here that the Boston Massacre took place in front of the east façade. An oval memorial with cobblestones marks the spot. From the Old State House you have a wonderful view through the skyscrapers on the Custom House, Boston's first skyscraper. The next stop is Faneuil Hall, traditionally the public market. The building is currently under construction for renovation and the beautiful view of the hall is hidden by canvases. Next to Faneuil Hall, lies Quincy Market, once Boston's fruit, vegetable, meat and fish market. After a thorough renovation, it became a popular shopping and restaurant complex. The no less than 163 m long market hall with a beautiful colonnade houses great restaurants, fast food chains and street food stalls and is the ideal place for a quick lunch.

The Freedom Trail continues through the Paul Revere House, the Old North Church, Copp’s Hill Burying Ground and finally ends at the USS Constitution. The USS Constitution is the oldest sailing warship in the world. It was baptized more than 200 years ago (in 1797) and was mainly used in the Mediterranean to protect the American fleet against pirates. During the war of 1812, the ship became famous because cannonballs bounced off the ship in a fight with a British one. It won 42 battles, lost none and was never boarded by the enemy. And our 200-year-old looks younger and more cheerful than ever. The pride of the US Navy. A visit is definitely worth it, but watch out for the height of the lower deck if you are longer than 1.60 m ;-).

From the USS Constitution you have an excellent view of the Boston skyline and you can see Bunker Hill Monument, an obelisk commemorating a battle of the revolution and also the last monument of the Freedom Trail.