Day 4 - Queen Elizabeth NP, a medley of wonders

The equator runs through Uganda and also through Queen Elizabeth NP. Today we drive several times over that magical line from the southern to the northern hemisphere and back.

With an area of ​​2,000 km², the Queen Elizabeth NP was once the richest wildlife park in the country. However, during Uganda's turbulent past, most animals were killed by large-scale poaching. Fortunately, the tide has turned and the wildlife population of the park is steadily growing. The park has a rich variety of vegetation with a vast grassy savanna, shady forests, a tropical rainforest, enormous lakes, fertile marshes and no less than 35 saltwater crater lakes. This leads to an extensive range of animals and makes the park more than worth a visit. It is not without reason that it is the most visited park in Uganda. The park already existed before the independence of Uganda and was founded in 1952 as Kazinga NP. In 1954 the name was changed to Queen Elizabeth NP as a tribute to the British Queen on the occasion of her visit.

The day starts early because to see wildlife, the morning and evening hours are the best times. Animals are looking for food and water at this time and they roam the savannah. Finding the Big Five today is not possible. The  rhino stars because of its absence. But maybe the other four will give us a great day. The sun rises and turns the sky into a beautiful purple color. The start of a perfect day? As a greeting, an East African Defassa waterbuck is waiting for us. 

A little further we see one of the Big Five: a small herd of buffalo enjoying the morning sun. Stowaways  in the form of birds ride on their backs without paying a ticket. Meanwhile, the sun climbs higher and higher. Hundreds of Ugandan kobs, walk, jump or eat their belly full in the vast savanna.

The kob is an antelope and resembles the impala, but is slightly heavier built. We can delete that one from our wishlist. Great, our safari has been a great success so far. But our hunger has not yet satisfied. We are here in the first place to see those incredible imposing cats and no, the house cat of the hotel does not count J. This morning, our main activity is a lion tracking. We have picked up a tracker with antenna. A little cheating, I confess. Yet cheating turns out to be not that simple. Even with the antenna, we do not pick up signals from their collar for the time being. Cell phones must be switched to flight mode, cameras and film cameras have to be switched off  to avoid any interference. But it pays off, because finally we  hear at first soft beeps that get louder and louder. The lion hunt can begin. Eight pairs of eyes are opened wide, every movement in the savannah watched. In the bushes in front of us we see two kings of the jungle. 

Their beautiful manes shine in the sunlight. The big crowd clearly disturbs their peace. The still pleasant temperatures invite them to take a morning walk. After a good stretch, the lions start their walk through the tall grass. It is merely stretching the legs before they settle down under shady bushes to spend the hottest hours of the day. Our lion seeker has another surprise in store. Because the next series of beeps does not lead us to a new lion, but to the most graceful cat of all: the leopard. He hides well in the grass. Believe me, his spots are an excellent camouflage in the arid savanna. When our tracker throws a cookie at him, his curiosity is aroused. 

He straightens up and walks towards the biscuit to subject it to a thorough examination. This way we get a first-class view of his elegant catwalk from the VIP seats.

If I have learned anything from my previous Africa travels, it is not just keeping your eyes open for the Big Five and Little Five, but also looking up every now and then. Yes, a graceful giraffe is fun, bucky buffaloes are even more fun, an elegant elephant is the ultimate and you can marvel at those particularly cheerful but also weird warthogs, but Africa also has an unprecedentedly colorful bird population. Here in the Queen Elizabeth NP they have no less than 500 species, one more colorful or beautiful than the other. Over the years I especially appreciate the kingfisher. In the first place because they look so colorful, but also mainly because they are so playful. And also because there are so many different subspecies. You can find them flying above the water in search of fish, or in the branches of the trees where they stand out colorfully. Sometimes you see them flying in and out of their hole, that they make in the soft sides along the waterfront. In addition to the kingfishers, you will also find a large number of birds of prey here, such as ospreys, vultures and an assortment of birds, endemic to the area.

As mentioned earlier, the NP was previously called Kazinga. That name comes from the channel that connects two lakes in the park: Lake Edward and Lake George. This afternoon a boat trip on the 40 km long canal is on the program. A great safari experience, because the channel is known for large numbers of hippos, elephants and buffaloes. It doesn't take long before we see the first elephants playing in the water. 

Yes, a refreshing bath sounds great this afternoon. There are hundreds of hippos. They also enjoy the cool water during the day. It protects their rigid skin from dryness and sunburn.

Buffalo are lounging on the waterfront. Birds fly back and forth. They nestle among the buffalo and hippos along the bank. An eclectic company that coexists peacefully. Monkeys are also present. They jump from branch to branch. We see a couple of velvet monkeys playing in the trees and a colobus monkey sits perky and proud with its long mane on the side. 

When leaving the park, a crossing herd of elephants blocks the road. We count 27 in total. 

A whole family out in search of water, although that is not the will of one of the teenagers. The adolescent behavior leads to a trumpeting that can be heard from afar. Bucking and reluctantly, he follows the family from a distance. A squabble, it occurs in the best families. Also in the elephant families of the wonderful and majestic Queen Elizabeth NP.